Ann Demeulemeester leaves her Fashion House

Ann Demeulemeester Animal fur

I must be deconnected from European news, because I only just learnt on monday that Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester,, who I love for her androgynous and strict style, will leave her eponymous brand.

As a tribute to this talented and anti-conformist women, one of the “Antwerp Six”, this is a short retrospective of my favorites looks from her.

ann demeulemeester portrait

Reminder: Ann Demeulemeester founded her Fashion House in 1987 and started Paris Runway three years later, experiencing a quick success.

She imposed her radical vision of Fashion with her silhouettes dominated by black and white colors, her deconstructivist style, and her close attention to detail and use of cutting-edge techniques and materials. Her long and thin silhouettes are romantic, feminines, but opposed to ostentatious.

Ann Demeulemeester SS2014 Androgynous

ann demeulemeester SS2014 runway

ann demeulemeester androgyne

ELLE French Magazine said 1999: “« You have to go around her creations as you would go around a modern piece of art, or a sculpture: understand what is the face and the reverse, how the volumes work, and sometimes read the manual (which is provided). ”

Ann Demeleumeester androgynous look

As a fan of punk and gothic, she collaborated with my Fashion Icon Patti Smith, one of the most talented collaboration to me.

Patti Smith Ann Demeulemeester collab

Patti Smith Ann Demeulemeester collab

The easiest way to understand her retirement, is to read the letter she addressed to Women’s Wear Daily:

“November 2013

Dear Friends,

As a young girl I dreamed of having a voice in fashion. I worked hard to realise this dream and now I feel that I have accomplished this mission. I always followed my own path.

A new time is coming both for my personal life and the brand Ann Demeulemeester. I feel it’s time to separate our paths.
Ann Demeulemeester is an adult brand now with its own identity and legacy that is able to continue growing without me…

I am really surprised by this early retirement, and hope that Ann will come back soon with new projects.

xx

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